Il Vinco - "A New Generation of Natural-Wine Producers Is Revolutionizing Italy’s Lazio Region"

By embracing age-old traditions and organic viticulture, a handful of quality-minded winemakers are changing the region’s reputation

Full article on sevenfifty.com can be found here.

Crater Lake Slopes Finding International Acclaim

Lazio’s northern regions, located near the borders of Tuscany and Umbria, are also undergoing transformation. The slopes around Lake Bolsena, a crater lake in the now dormant volcano Monte Volsinii, have attracted new investment and interest, thanks to their rich volcanic soils and lake-influenced microclimate. 

Natural-wine producers Le Coste and Andrea Occhipinti, both launched around 2004, have brought international attention to the small Gradoli subregion, located northwest of the lake.  Many of the relatively young producers here were inspired to preserve traditional varieties like Aleatico, Grechetto Rosso, and Procanico (also known as Trebbiano Toscano) and to work with as little intervention as possible in the winery.

“I decided to produce quality wines because I believe very much in the potential of the vines in the area of ​​Gradoli, where I live,” says Marini, “and also because I didn’t want to have to fight to the bottom to be able to occupy a place on the shelf of a supermarket.” Instead, she decided to revive the Aleatico grape, for which the Aleatico di Gradoli DOC is named, along with its traditional regional style—luscious, rich passito wines made from dried grapes. Marini is one of just two producers making Aleatico in this style, and she keeps production small, making just 4,000 to 5,000 bottles annually.

On the southern slopes along Lake Bolsena, in Montefiascone (home to the historic Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone DOC), three local friends—Daniele Manoni, Marco Fucini, and Nicola Brenciaglia—created Il Vinco winery in 2014. Their goal was to restore the native Canaiolo Nero variety, which was nearly abandoned in favor of international grapes, while simultaneously highlighting a particular terrain that, while close to Gradoli, was distinctive because of its lower elevation and diminished sea influence. Il Vinco also works with Procanico, Rossetto, and Malvasia Bianca to make an unofficial version of Est! Est!! Est!!! with spontaneous fermentation and no fining or filtering.

For the proprietors of Il Vinco, the reputation of Lazio could present an opportunity. “For us, the wine heritage of Lazio is neither a burden nor a disadvantage,” says Manoni. “While it’s true that for many years this region has been seen [for] quantity production at the expense of quality, it’s also true that for new, innovative companies like ours, it’s relatively easier to emerge in the [Lazio] market [as compared with] nobler and more famous regions.”

As more producers return to the traditional regions, grapes, and techniques of Lazio, the new wave of quality will continue to gain momentum. “A revolution is underway,” adds Manoni, “with many new young—and [some] less young—people who want to redeem their territory.”

Sarah May Grunwald lives and works in the Lazio countryside and leads wine tours and tastings in Rome and throughout Italy. She is a certified sommelier and current WSET Diploma student. She is the owner of the Tbilisi wine-and-food tour company Taste Georgia.